In this post we describe and give instructions Howto Avoid & Fix Common Ricoh GR Problems. All Problems and Tips apply to both Ricoh GR & GR II Camera models.
Last Update April 2021 (adding dissasembled body and lens unit photos to discuss possible dust entry points)
Table of Contents
Dust on Sensor
The Problem
Dust particles become visible as black points and smudges on the photograph. The higher the used Aperture f-stop number the better and more dust particles become visible.
Why does it happen?
Particles enter trough gaps in between the lens unit and accumulate on the Hot Mirror,
The retractable GR & GR II Lens Unit consists of the housing barrels and the lens module. The unit is screwed onto a rectangle plastic plate with a blue glass in the middle, called “Hot Mirror“. It reflects the infrared light and also acts as physical barrier against particles depositing on the sensor behind it. With the lens breathing air while extracting and retracting, dust particles can enter the housing trough the front and side gaps in between the rotating barrels. Ricoh engineers tried to seal both pathways using a stripes of thin foam like material. The material thicknes and sealing quality degrades with usage. It is suspectible to tear apart and flake into smaller pieces which can enter the lens too. Particles traveling trough the lens will most likely deposit on the Hot Mirror and not on the sensor.
Particles enter trough gaps around the Controls and the Battery Compartement, skip the Rubber Seal and accumulate on the Sensor (GR & GRII) / the Hot Mirror (GR III)
The magnesium and plastic parts of the GR camera body include three openings for particels to enter the body. The first around the ADJ. Lever/Button. The second around the Front Wheel. The third inside the Battery Compartment. Dust and particulary the photographers own dead finger skin can enter on each side of the controls. When inserting the battery dust particles can be pushed trough the cutout holes in the battery compartement into the body.
To protect the Ricoh GR and GR II sensor the engineers decided to place a rectangular shaped Rubber Seal on top of the sensor plate. Once the sensor module is screwed together with the beforementioned lens module, the rubber seal squeezes together, ideally forming a protective dust barrier. However the rubber does not necessarily compress in a uniform way (lower left photo below). This is potentially the achilles heel for particles to slip under.
GR III Difference
The description about Rubber Seal does not apply to the GR III model in the same way. As showed in the the Youtube Video Meeting Ricoh Imaging Japan! (GRIII & Showroom) @15:15min. the Hot Mirror seems to be screwed directly on top of the sensor, making a possible seal more tight or even unnecessary. However the question remains if there is a physical barrierer in between the Hot Mirror and the Lens Module?
How does sensor dust affect the photographic process?
Dark spots overlay the photograph.
Howto check for dust spots
For best dust spots visibility and in order to maximize the contrast we need to make a photograph of an evenly lit, uniform surface. This could be the blue sky on a sunny day or a plain white wall.
- Focus on the surface or infinity (use manual focus) when photographing the blue sky.
- Set the camera to Av-mode and increase the f-stop number to f/11 or f/16. The higher the chosen f-stop number the better definied smallest dust particles will become visible on the photograph.
- To minimize high image noise interferance try shooting with ISO 100-800. Less is better.
- If shooting handheld try to capture a sharp shot with a shutter time of at least 1/125th or faster. Use a tripod or lay the camera on a stable surfce when longer times are needed for correct exposure.
Make the photo, review the image on a bigger screen and note the location(s), lenght(s) and definitions of the dust spot(s).
Howto get rid of dust spots
- Eliminate visible particles on the image by using the Clone Tool in Photoshop or Lightroom
- Activate the built in Shake / Dust Removal feature (GR III only)
- Use an ultrasonic toothbrush to vibrate the body and the particles off the sensor
- Unscrew the body and clean the Camera Sensor by following the instructions:
- Step by step disassembly and sensor cleaning method jamiecollison.com (Ricoh GR & GR II)
- The easy way of cleaning the Ricoh GR sensor hackcorrelation.blogspot.de (Ricoh GR & GR II)
- Send the camera to an authorized Ricoh camera repair service in your region
Howto avoid dust entering the body
- Seal the lens module against particles that might enter the body trough the gap in between the moving lens barrel.
- For the GR & GR II mount the GH-3 Lens Adapter (affiliate Link) + a 49mm clear filter.
- For the GR III mount the GA-1 Lens Adapter (affiliate Link)+ a 49mm clear filter .
- Use the camera with clean hands, insert clean batteries slowly
- Turn the camera off in between shots (Startup, lens extrusion time is only 0,8-0,6 seconds!)
- Store the camera in a lint free (neopren) camera bag. Not your jeans pocket!
Who is reporting this problem?
The searchresults for “GR Dust” on DPreview.com Ricoh Forums brings up 39 individual threads. And yes, the GR III is also affected by the dust issue:
Closed Shutter after Power On
The Problem
After Power On the Ricoh GR & GR II Shutter remains closed and the display is black.
Why does it happen?
Possible reasons
- Moisture got inside and caused the delicate Leaf Shutter Blades to become sticky
- The Lens Module is reaching the end of its mechanical life time.
- An investigation of independent user reports suggest that the problem starts to appear between 11.000 and 45.000 shutter releases.
How does it affect the photographic process?
The start up / ready to shoot time is increased from 0,8 to 4 seconds. The ability to make captures spontaneously is significantly decreased.
Howto avoid it
- <irony> shoot less </irony>
- Do NOT expose the camera, especially the lens barrel to wet conditions!
- Seal the lens module against particles that might enter the body trough the gap in between the moving lens barrel.
- For the GR & GR II mount the GH-3 Lens Adapter (affiliate Link) + a 49mm clear filter.
- For the GR III mount the GA-1 Lens Adapter (affiliate Link)+ a 49mm clear filter .
Howto fix it
Temporarily
The Shutter will open and unlock after making one “Dark Frame” exposure.
- While Power On press and hold the Shutter Button
- Shoot the Dark Frame in TAv or Manual mode with a fast Shutter Speed and open Aperture. In other shooting modes the camera will expose a long time for the closed black shutter.
Long term
Contact and send the camera to an authorized Ricoh camera repair service in your region.
Who is reporting this problem?
Stuck Out & Locked Lens
The Problem
This Problem develops most often as follow up to the above mentioned Closed Shutter Problem.
After Power Off the lens will not retract into the body and remains in the the extended Power On position. Pushing and forcing the lens back inside the body is not possible.
Why does it happen?
Possible reasons
- Something small got inside and is blocking the rotating lens barrel from turning the front lens back down. (The camera is programmed to extended to the lens to this fail safe point)
- The Lens Module reached the end of its mechanical life time
How does it affect the photographic process?
- The camera is unusable at this point.
- After Power On the camera checks the lens unit and turns itself off again.
Howto avoid it
Not sure, this behavior seems to be programmed by the manufacturer
Howto fix it
Temporarily
Long term
Contact and send the camera to an authorized Ricoh camera repair service in your region.
Who is reporting this problem?
- Ricoh GR lens stuck – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPi34W-XFU8
- RIP My Ricoh GR Stuck Lens Problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvu-RO0NDwA
- Ricoh GR – Lens stuck, repairable? https://www.flickr.com/groups/2181763@N20/discuss/72157658291004729/
Skipping ISO Values when turning Circle Dial (GR III)
The Problem
Ricoh GR III users report that turning the rear circle dial (adjusting ISO) leads to unexpected outcomes. ISO values randomly jump up or down. For example, instead of going down from ISO 800 to 400 the ISO changes to 1000.
Why does it happen?
Most likely grease, dead skin or other small particles have accumulated under the round function dial. The continouus electronic contact is disturbed, leading to nonlinear value changes.
Howto avoid it
Wash your hand and clean wipe the camera back once in a while (:
How to fix it
- Some people report that quickly spinning the circle dial resolves the problem temporarily.
- A longer lasting solution would be to remove any accumulated particles underneath the circle dial by using compressed air (rocket blower).
Who is reporting this problem?
Sticky Shutter Button
Ricoh GR Shutter Button stuck in the lower right corner
The Problem
After pressing the shutter button it gets stuck in the left or right corner. Pressing the button in its center helps to release it from the blocked position
Why does it happen?
Fingertip grease and dust tend to accumulate under the button, making it less responsive. The shape invites a rocker-like motion and allows possible stickiness.
Howto avoid it
Use gloves 🙂 just kidding, I am not sure if this can be avoided at all.
How to fix it
Undocumented but a possible cleaning method would be to use a syringe and inject small amounts of electrical contact cleaner under the button, while the camera is upside down.
Anyone else reporting this problem?
A discussion about this topic is available on the dpreview.com forum
Grip Rubber Stretching
The Problem
The front and back rubber grip starts to stretch, moves and finally peel off.
Why does it happen?
Touching and pressing against the rubber heats up the glue below. Over time the glue becomes less sticky and allows the rubber to stretch outside the rims.
How does it affect the photographic process?
Touching the grip does not feel stiff and secure anymore.
Howto avoid it
I think the problem can only be avoided by not holding and using the camera for extended periods of time, especially in a warm and humid environment.
Howto fix it
- Cut away the overstretched and excessive rubber parts.
- The remaining rubber should fit nicely inside the body rim again.
- Remove the old, yellow looking glue.
- Use superglue to attach to remaining rubber the body.
- Be very careful not to spill the glue over the body or controls. It is very reactive and fast drying!
Where is more information about the issue?
- User reporting same issues with the older Ricoh GR IV model on Dpreview Forums
- Longtime Ricoh GR Review report on compactshooter.com
I read in several fora that The griii has a Huge heat problem. Is it Common to this model or is it just happensonly in some faulty batches?
Hi Mauro, from what I read on several forums, (I read Dpreview most frequently) the heat issue affect every GR III until now. It appears to be more noticeable after longer power-on times. If you turn the camera off and on the heat will not built up as fast. Check this infrared heat camera comparison (including GR III) for example https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62558531
Well, seems that now I reached 3 of 4 issues you listed above. I really love the camera (maybe because was my first) now thinking about what could be the next and of course, one more durable. Thanks for putting together all this known issues
Sorry to hear Daniel. At least you maxed it out! Whats the next camera? This seems to be always a good discussion starter 🙂 How about a camera with a non-retractable lens design? You can check out https://streetphototip.com/library/52-pancake-lens-comparison-list-street-travel-photography/ to get a small pancake lens to go with it. Good luck and let us know what you got instead!
Thank you for this post – very helpful!
I have the stuck lens problem. I‘m curious if there’s a way to fix theses plastic gears that move the lens mechanism? For example to clean it from dirt and to put a little oil to it?
Have you tried this?
I‘m asking before dismantling the camera in vain..
thanks in advance for your opinion!
Best,
Artem
Hallo Artem
In order to get to the white motor gears you will have to unscrew pretty much all parts inside the body. I did this procedure one a one way trip and did not plan to put it back together. I am not sure if anything can get in between the white gears since they are normally covered by a black plastic plate. In the video I removed the plate to show the moving gears. Also putting oil on them would not be recommendable, it could easily spill around.
Best of luck fixing your gear!
Michael
Thanks for the insights. I love the images these cameras can produce, but I may now skip the grIII to replace my prehistoric Fuji s5..Fuji I wish I knew how to quit you.
Sincerely,
Don Pancake
Hello Michael, and thanks very much for the clear and well-organized post.
FWIW, on the DPReview site I posted about an examination of the GR lens unit I did, with respect to the stuck lens/dust-sealing problem. I have since bought a GR II, plus the adapter and clear filter, in light of what I found in this examination of my GR. What looks like a flimsy lens casing gasket, plus poor sealing against dust, seem to add up to a poor design with respect to durability in less than optimal conditions. The adapter and filter are a must if you live or take photos in dusty surroundings.
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4482509
I concur and do the same. Protecting the lens using the lens adapter+filter has priority over size and portability. I noticed and commented on your post on dp too! My broken GR (stuck lens) waits to be inspected it in more detail. I will record and discuss my findings in a video.
How repair Closed Shutter after Power On and Stuck Out & Locked Lens. The cause of the malfunction is a break in the Lens Shutter Flex Cable at the bend (half-width crack). I installed a Lens Shutter Flex Cable For RICOH GR GR2 with Aliexpress and now mine RICOH GR2 works.
Thanks Vadim for follwing up and pointing out a possible cable failure. In fact I broke mine while dissassembling my Gr. This would be a good time to order a new one and install it. The needed soldering tip seems to be a precise one. I will be happy to learn if this 2,99 $ spare part is able to fix the shutter closed issue.